I have reached an age where looking back on my life means many things. I recognize a stage where looking back isn't always the same as remembering, since there is now so much to remember that I don't always recall, or if I do, my recollections can be incomplete, or inaccurate.
As the title would suggest, though entirely coincidentally, there is a large breach in the mountainous terrain of my experience. It is no clean hyperbole that describes my adventures as a being, human. My life has been a series of ups and downs, some high and low, others barely perceived.
From 1988 through 1992 (with interruptions between) I lived in a small Bavarian town. Southern Germany is an interesting mixture of Alpine insanity (exacerbated by the presence of remaindered windstorms that blow off the Sahara and become trapped in vales and dales of the Alps) and German rationality. The rationality of Germans taken as a group is so fierce that it borders on irrationality, as I tend to find extremes of the psyche circular in their diagnosis and symptoms.
Being 17 in a prosy German town is an interesting thing. The safety of the streets was legendary. I say was. Back then I could leave my bicycle unchained anywhere and come back to it, one could walk anywhere at any time without the slightest care. By the time 1990 came along, with the inrush of Eastern Europeans, this all changed. Vandalism and robbery occurred with exponential frequency, and people became suspicious and hateful (relative to my prior experience).
Traffic always was a serious issue in Garmisch-Partenkirchen--nominally populated by around 30,000 people, Garmisch-Partenkirchen (or Garmisch) grew to around 300,000 on any given snowy day. I am not exaggerating. This crowd would send the atmosphere to a frenetic pace, with cappucino joints hopping and shopping popping with bustling Omas and Opas selling their boiled wool underwear and other fun-filled crafts. For someone as suggestible as myself, it was a great opportunity to people watch, and to drive like a madman through the pedestrianised zone on my bike. Mind you the Füßgängerzone was a new contrivance, where earlier the paved cowpath simply split into two obverse one-way "streets."
The changes in Garmisch were pretty amazing when you consider that on my arrival it was essentially a cow-town (not in the stockyards sense, but in the pastures and shepherds sense) with a ski-slope and a couple of hotels. By the time I left there were condo developments, and discos, and high-speed rail connexions. I recall riding from town for five minutes or so and being in the fields, with towers of manure and flowers everywhere--the kind of green that makes you expect to see some swiss-miss jump up from the flowers and being then seventeen, in my mind she'd have a lusty look in her eye and a picnic blanket open nearby...
I would ride the trails into the mountains...Garmisch is enclosed on two sides by mountain ranges, each designated as a national park. I'd ride until my butt ached, and I'd inevitably find myself in some surprising hamlet under the granite mountains with names like Hammersau, Grainau, and Murnau. I think the "Au" refers to a field or some such thing. Basically it is a pastoral existence for a young man, if perhaps a bit lonely and not a great place for someone with my particular bents of mind. That's why it came as such a great pleasure to learn that my schooling (or what was left of it) was to be done in Munich--a great metropole about 101km to the North, and boasting all the sins and suasions of the mind and flesh that a young man could possibly dream of (and many as yet then undreamt of).
This treatment is not of Munich, though. Munich is an amazing and marvelous city, and still holds my heart in thrall, but Garmisch-Partenkirchen is the town of my teen ages, the healthy and vigorous "ort" of my orientation and the benchmark of happy times to follow, by which so many fall short (inexplicably short to those who don't have the perception of experience). I suppose I've just touched on something defensive in myself--I am a bit raw that people think I am negative. And people do...I have been at odds with people who can't understand the vehemence of my observations, and I feel sorry that they are drwan into my subliminal melancholy, for they haven't seen the godly land of the Loisach valley, with its fairytale villages, its green fields...they haven't experienced the pleasure of ruined castles found suddenly while biking through the unspoiled pine forests. For my compatriots its a life of highway rest-stops, strip malls, of Americana gone wild, of sins of the flesh and mortification of the mind carried to conditions that would have a satanic figure blushing and exclaiming "why didn't I think of that?"
There are so many memories flooding in on me, how do I share them? How do I keep from being judgemental when I feel judged unfairly? My test comes at the price of having known something delicious, but personal.